Alice Still Lives Here, But Man Has It Changed
Posted on January 14, 2009
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To be honest, I’m not sure if the legendary Alice Waters actually lives in Berkeley, Calif., but her restaurant named Chez Panisse is on Shattuck Avenue, a legend unto itself. Home to the creation of California Cuisine (and, one could argue, to the slow food movement itself), Chez Panisse–believe it or not–opened in 1971. (Identity of the top photo is on the next page.)
My wife and I were just in Berkeley to ensconce our 18-year-old at the University of California, but try as I could, I couldn’t get into Chez Panisse during our three-day stay. Well, maybe I could have with resourcefulness–standing around and waiting for someone not to show up or some such–but I prefer to have reservations in advance. The shrine to what Ms. Waters calls "The Delicious Revolution," Chez Panisse pioneered the California Cuisine style of using only fresh, local ingredients and changing them daily to suit what’s available and what’s best for the taste buds. The menus are prix fixe, but there is a cafe adjoining where one can order from a menu.
Next time. Four years give one ample opportunity.
Now, why has Berkeley changed so much since that auspicious restaurant opening in 1971?
Let me put it this way–the city may be one of the most multiethnic in the smallest amount of space in the world; it’s like Ridley Scott’s Blade Runner but with civility. Here one can feast on Turkish, Afghani, Indian, Pakistani, Vietnamese, Japanese, Tibet, Chinese, Italian, American, Mexican, or Brazilian cuisine–well, just name it–and of course, French, which is where I started my culinary journey in Berkeley.
The first night we chose Liaison Bistro, where the new Berkeley student loved her Bouillibaise, the wife hated her salmon, and I enjoyed a Croque Americaine (hambruger, pictured). Can’t go wrong with a hamburger. I thought the place was fun, crowded with happy diners, and replete with service that was bistro, or Russian for quick. (Expatriate Russian cabbies in Paris used to go into restaurants and shout "Bistro!" and thus a whole new concept in French dining.)
The next night, after a visit to Napa Valley (tomorrow’s post), we tried some good ol’ American seafood at Spenger’s (top photo), and it didn’t disappoint. Spenger’s offers all the traditional American fish and crustacean treats, and of course, the fried variety as well, The clam chowder was particularly hearty and heartening. After a full day in Napa, we ate light.
Leaving on Monday morning before depositing said 18-year-old in her dormitory with a stunning view of the San Francisco skyline across the bay, we took a guess and ended up at a Vietnamese restaurant that looked to be newly opened since it had a makeshift canvas banner hanging out front to announce its presence and its name on University Avenue–Ang Hong.
The restaurant bills itself as offering "Authentic Vietnamese Cuisine," and I’m sure that’s correct. This is nothing like the French-fusion type of stuff I’m used to at places like Le Colonial in Chicago and Slanted Door in San Francisco. However, my wife couldn’t get over how delicious her BBQ tofu and dry noodles were. My curry chicken (which is not the type of curry that the English pioneered and the Japanese use as well) was delicious as well, but mainly in terms of the vegetables included (since I’m not an avid chicken eater).
Frankly, I can’t wait to get back and try all the different cuisines in Berkeley.
Of course, I’d never let anyone up there know that I vote Republican and Libertarian, or I might end up as the next dinner item.
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