Where Swallows Return Each Spring

Posted on December 31, 2007 by Gary McCarty

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If you live in California, you’ve probably heard how the swallows return each spring to the San Juan Capistrano Mission, the seventh such mission founded in the state (when it belonged to Spain) by Frey Junipero Serra.

It’s a charming little city, and the Amtrak train (and Metrolink) stop right downtown within a block’s walking distance of the mission.

I decided to take the train down the other day with family in tow. We indeed visited the mission, but my main interest was in trying one of the three famous restaurants in town–Rendezvous, Cafe Ramos or l’Hirondelle (French for the swallow).

Turns out that Rendezvous was closed for the holidays. Ramos I couldn’t find (since it was on the other side of the tracks from whence we exited–found it on the way home), so l’Hirondelle it was.

The French gem is a smallish place, seating about 80, but with a roaring fire in the foyer and chilly temperatures outside, it was a welcome respite.

As it turns out, the food was memorable as well. It’s been a couple of decades at least since I’d last savored Beef Bourguignon, so bypassing some specials and the wonderful salmon my wife had, I plunged into the beef entree.

I was not disappointed. Beef this tender and flavorable is hard to come by. I need to find a recipe and try it myself.

However, what we all enjoyed the most were the Garlic French Fries we ordered as an appetizer. They proved wonderfully crisp on the outside, while tender and somewhat moist on the inside. Perfectly done.

One down, two restaurants to go, so no doubt I’ll return to watch the swallows come back from their southern winter homes on March 21. Smart little critters that know the vernal equinox, now aren’t they?

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